Day 20 - Galapagos - South Plaza and Santa Fe Island


After another very rough nights sailing, we woke to find ourselves anchored off the big island of Santa Cruz (the one with the largest habitation) although we are not scheduled to land there.

After breakfast, at 7.45 we left for the small islet of South Plaza.  Here we found an island that has been disturbed by mankind in the past and now the wildlife experts are trying to recover.  The islet is populated by Land Iguanas and also Marine Iguanas.  The land iguanas on this islet are yellow in colour.  Their predator is the Galapagos Hawk.  However these birds were almost wiped out here and on nearby Santa Cruz by farmers in the 1930’s and 40’s as they were seen as a threat to their livestock.  The land iguanas main diet is cactus but when the population was uncontrolled due to the demise of the Galapagos Hawk, this led to more iguanas needing to eat the Cacti trees and they were also eating all new cacti growth meaning no new trees can grow so when a tree dies, there is no way it can be replaced.  Now all livestock has to be kept safe by the farmers (i.e. chickens kept in cages or runs) and the population of the Galapagos Hawk is gradually increasing as the farmers are not persecuting them.   Cacti trees are also being reintroduced but are in protective cages to stop the iguanas eating them.  Here we also saw cactus finches and small ground finches.  We watched a couple of marine iguanas descend a very steep and rocky cliff which was fascinating to watch.  We also saw a hybrid iguana (result of a marine and land iguana mating).  Apparently this creature will be seen as an outcast by both types of iguana and will not be able to find a mate and will be victimised.



Cactus Finch

Cactus Finch

Cliff Top Scenery



Medium Ground Finch 

Land Iguana

Former Lava Tunnel.  This was once a tunnel but the roof was been eroded away millions of years ago.

Cactus regeneration

South Plaza Island landscape

Cactus Tree

Audubons Shearwaters

Red Billed Tropic Bird

Red Billed Tropic Bird

Marine Iguana

Land Iguana

Large Ground Finch


Hybrid Iguana, part marine, part land iguana


Land Iguana

Yellow Warbler

Cactus Trees

We returned to the boat and it then left for the island of Santa Fe which is 4 hours away.  When we arrive back from a tour, we are not allowed to take any sand onto the boat.  If we have a wet landing then we must wash all sand off our fins, snorkel kit and beach shoes before getting into the Pangas.  On arrival back at the boat we are showered down by the crew to remove anything that may have been missed.

We relaxed on the sundeck where we were initially followed by 7 Magnificent Frigate Birds who were using the thermals from the boat to carry them along.  Later we found many more of them sitting on the railings or any other perch they could find.  Our tour leader said they are very lazy birds and will take the boat rather than fly to new areas looking for nesting sites.  Paul had chosen to sunbathe on the sundeck where as I sat under the shade.  The inevitable happened and one of the Frigate Birds deposited its droppings on his arm.  He now calls them “Frigging Birds” but he did come under shade after that.

Magnificent Frigate Bird

Magnificent Frigate Bird

Magnificent Frigate Bird using uplift from the boat


Magnificent Frigate Birds over the boat (and Paul sunbathing under them)

Magnificent Frigate Bird hitching a lift on the boat


We also visited the bridge of the boat and had a chat to the captain who let me have a go at steering the boat and then after lunch we were taken on a short tour of the Engine Room.
Taking the controls

I'm in charge

Diego - Captain of the Solaris

One of the 3 engines powering the boat



On arrival at Santa Fe Island we did some snorkelling off the coast of the island and again saw some reef fish.










Our last tour of the day was on Santa Fe Island.  Our tour guide had hoped to see Rice Rats and Snakes and introduced tortoises but we didn’t see any.  We did see a very large colony of Sea Lions on arrival and several Land Iguanas.

Land Iguana and Swallow Tailed Gull

Sea Lions on the beach

Very Old Cactus Tree

Land Iguana

Trees look dead but they are just dormant

Land Iguana

Land Iguana climbing up tree to get to the vegetation

Pedro with Cactus 

Landscape on Santa Fe Island

Lava Lizard

Sea Lion Pup

Our boat - the Solaris



After dinner the crew had organised some dancing in the lounge area.  The Captain dressed up as a pirate and told us that we had not been authorised to board the boat and we had the choice of walking the gangplank or dancing.  We all chose to dance.  After than one of the guests called us out because he had seen Galapagos Sharks in the water around the boat.  There were 5 of them and they were chasing flying fish, some of whom jumped several feet out of the water to avoid being caught.  This went on for a long while and we eventually had to go to bed.

Galapagos Shark

Galapagos Shark

Galapagos Shark




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