Day 21 - Galapagos - San Cristobal Island


The boat started sailing towards San Cristobal Island at around 2.00 am so we were again being thrown around quite a bit over night.  


Today is Pauls birthday so he opened his cards over our early morning coffee and then at 6.00 am the boat started a tour around Kicker Rock.  We saw it as the sun was rising and it was quite a spectacular site.



Sunrise

Kicker Rock shortly after sunrise.

Kicker Rock 

Kicker Rock

Kicker Rock at 6.30 am.

Kicker Rock at 6.30 am.

Kicker Rock



At 7:00 am we were taken to snorkel along the rock and through one of the gaps in the rock.  A Pacific Green Turtle swan right under me.    



Pacific Green Turtle swimming under me.




We returned to the boat for breakfast and it sailed nearer to the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island which is the capital of the Galapagos Islands, which only took about half an hour.


San Cristobal Island is one of the 4 inhabited islands with a population of 6000.  We had the opportunity to visit the town for an hour or so.  5 of the guests left the boat here as they were only doing a 4 day/3 night tour and another 3 joined.  The town is very small and has several hotels, hostels, restaurants and gift shops.  We had a walk around and bought t-shirts and post cards (needed in a few days time to take part in a traditional event).  There were sea lions everywhere.  We even saw one on the front of a restaurant and others blocking the entrance to a boardwalk path.  The noise and smell were a bit overwhelming but they are fun to watch. 



Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

Street in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

Street in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno

Monument to Charles Darwin - Paul and Charles shake hands

Monument to Charles Darwin, depicting The Beagle, Charles Darwin, 
a Giant Tortoise an Iguana and a Cactus

Beach on San Cristobal Island

Sea Lions on someone's boat

Even in a restaurant

Spot the Sea Lion


Sea Lion on the landing pier




We went back to the boat for lunch and then had a nice long rest period during which we did some washing.  On the upper sundeck there are washing lines all around the side of the boat with substantial sized pegs.  During the day clothes and towels dry quickly.  One guest went up to collect her clothing before going to bed one night to find a load of birds sitting on the side with their backsides over the washing line and all her clean clothes were now covered with bird droppings.  That taught us to always take our clothes back to the cabin before dinner each night.


The next event at 3.00 was to the Interpretation Centre in the town and we were met by a bus near the pier.  This centre tells the story of the human interaction with the Galapagos Islands.  It was very interesting but there was no air conditioning in the building and there were many other tours going on at the same time so it was difficult to hear our guide.  Fortunately I was already aware of most of the information given from the research I had done before coming on the trip.  


Charles Darwin visited the Galapagos Islands for 5 weeks in 1835  at the age of 26 travelling on HMS Beagle. He collected thousands of species of flora and fauna and took them back to Britain for experts to examine in more detail.  It was easy to catch the birds and other creatures as they had no fear of man and out of curiosity would come very close.  The big mistake made by Darwin was in not identifying which island the bird specimens had been found on.  However he only visited 4 of the islands.  He had been more careful with recording plant species.   Darwin went on to study how the creatures had originally got to the Galapagos Islands and this led to his “Survival of the Fittest by Natural Selection” theory as the descendants of all these creatures must have survived crossing vast oceans and then adapting to life in a very harsh environment.  He published his book “On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection” in 1859. 


From then on many other expeditions were made to the Galapagos and so many creatures were killed and taken away as specimens for research and museums.  This nearly killed off the wildlife on the islands.  One expedition alone brought home over 75000 species.  In 1959 the Charles Darwin Research Centre was created on Santa Cruz Island and it is from here that life on the islands is now studied, with species being captured and then released unharmed after necessary data has been recorded.


We were also told that the islands are constantly moving south eastwards towards the South American coastline at a rate of 4cms per year.  Science has found that each island will gradually sink below the sea and be replaced to the north as volcanos beneath the sea erupt and form new islands.  Evidence of former islands exist to the east where there is a chain of submerged islands known as Carnegie Ridge.


Interpretation Centre, hidden behind vegetation



Interpretation Centre

We were then given another 40 minutes free time in the town so we walked along the sea front which was dominated by sea lions.


Sea Lions blocking the walkway.  We had to go the long way around.

Lava Heron (I think)

Water feature on sea front that maps the Galapagos Islands

Sea Lions on the beach




When we arrived for dinner, the dining room was decorated with “Happy Birthday” signs.  They had realised that it was Pauls birthday and after the main course an enormous cake was brought out with a “question mark” candle.  We all sang happy birthday to Paul and he blew out the candle and then the chef cut the cake and shared it amongst the guests and (hopefully) the staff too.


Pauls birthday cake

Paul and Chef Javier







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